{"id":352,"date":"2007-12-29T23:49:49","date_gmt":"2007-12-30T07:49:49","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/?p=352"},"modified":"2012-10-30T00:07:03","modified_gmt":"2012-10-30T07:07:03","slug":"life-on-the-canals","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/2007\/12\/life-on-the-canals\/","title":{"rendered":"Life on the Canals"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>After an early session of email, I worked on some photos from Friday and prepared to meet the day. The group got together in the lobby at 7:15 to stroll the local market and gather treats for breakfast at the noodle shop. These included khanom krok, a pancake-like confection made with coconut milk and ground rice; chive dumplings reminiscent of dim sum, served with a sweet soy dipping sauce; roasted bananas doused at the last moment with a honey-like palm-sugar syrup; and ripe mangoes with sweet sticky rice. And of course we could choose plain or hot and sour noodles, with soup or dry style, as our main course. I feel full just thinking about it, but we were planning a late lunch, so the calories would have to stretch.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><br \/>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-BananaSkewers-1545_md.jpg\" title=\"Bananas on skewers, Sukhumvit morning street market\" rel=\"lightbox-am\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-BananaSkewers-1545_th.jpg\" alt=\"Bananas on skewers, Sukhumvit morning street market\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Bananas on skewers, Sukhumvit morning street market<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-Bananas-1551_md.jpg\" title=\"Roasted bananas, Sukhumvit morning street market\" rel=\"lightbox-am\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-Bananas-1551_th.jpg\" alt=\"Roasted bananas, Sukhumvit morning street market\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Roasted bananas, Sukhumvit morning street market<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-ChiveCakes-1555_md.jpg\" title=\"Chive cakes, Sukhumvit morning street market\" rel=\"lightbox-am\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitStreetVendors-ChiveCakes-1555_th.jpg\" alt=\"Chive cakes, Sukhumvit morning street market\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Chive cakes, Sukhumvit morning street market<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitNoodleShop-DryStyle-1557_md.jpg\" title=\"Fish cake noodes, dry style, on Sukhumvit\" rel=\"lightbox-am\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-SukhumvitNoodleShop-DryStyle-1557_th.jpg\" alt=\"Fish cake noodes, dry style, on Sukhumvit\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Fish cake noodes, dry style, on Sukhumvit<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div><\/p>\n<p>The drive to the West end of Bangkok was slow, as cars, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and huge buses clogged the streets around the Grand Palace and other well known attractions. Just beyond, we stepped out into the marketplace at Tha Chang (a ferry pier) and made our way to a smaller pier which handles private boat rentals. We would be the masters of our own schedule, as we headed up Khlong Bangkok Noi, one of the primary canals heading West into Thonburi. Whether due to heavy boat traffic or other reasons, the waterways were quite choppy today, but we all got into the extra-long longtail boat without injury.<\/p>\n<p>Longtails are named for their propeller shafts, which can reach lengths of several feet. The drivers maneuvers the noisy diesel engine to position the propeller and maneuver the boat around (or through) obstacles in the waterway. We crossed busy Chao Phraya river and motored over to the Royal Barge Museum. I had visited the museum in February 2006, when several barges were being freshened up. Since that time, they have been used in two or three ceremonial processions and \u2014 with the exception of the part of the hull near the waterline \u2014 are in peak condition. We snapped many photos.<\/p>\n<p>After departing the museum, we continued through a &#8220;residential&#8221; area where the canal was lined with houses built on stilts or behind a concrete seawall. We disembarked at Ban Bu, site of the last workshop making bronze bowls in the traditional manner by hand. The hot fires used to soften the metal for working, and the incessant hammering and grinding make for a challenging workplace. We visited each station and retreated to the adjacent shop to consider whether there was room in our lives (and suitcases) for any of these unique items. I chose a small bowl (or large teacup) with saucer, and a spoon that I need for eating coconuts and other practical applications. On our way back to our boat, we passed the playground of the next generation, World of Warcraft, where perhaps they will make virtual bronze products.<\/p>\n<p>We continued Northeast to Wat Chalor, which is building an unusual new temple to replace its dilapidated historic structure. The design is similar to the royal barges, made of cast cement and raucously decorated. We were free to view and photograph the exterior, but entrance would have required that we make merit by paying for admission, so we simply took in the exterior. A few dogs were alarmed by our presence, but the pig simply dozed right through our visit.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-Staircases-1783_md.jpg\" title=\"Houses along the canal, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-Staircases-1783_th.jpg\" alt=\"Houses along the canal, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Houses along the canal, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-DogsOnPorches-1784_md.jpg\" title=\"Dogs on the porch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-DogsOnPorches-1784_th.jpg\" alt=\"Dogs on the porch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Dogs on the porch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-Fishing-1703_md.jpg\" title=\"Fishing from the porch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-Fishing-1703_th.jpg\" alt=\"Fishing from the porch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Fishing from the porch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-WhiteHouse-1742_md.jpg\" title=\"The other white house, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-WhiteHouse-1742_th.jpg\" alt=\"The other white house, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">The other white house, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-HatVendor-1719_md.jpg\" title=\"Hat vendor pulling alongside to pitch her wares, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalLife-HatVendor-1719_th.jpg\" alt=\"Hat vendor pulling alongside to pitch her wares, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Hat vendor pulling alongside to pitch her wares, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-HeatingBrass-1668_md.jpg\" title=\"Heating brass to hand-make bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-HeatingBrass-1668_th.jpg\" alt=\"Heating brass to hand-make bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Heating brass to hand-make bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-HammeringBrass-1678_md.jpg\" title=\"Hammering brass into shape, Ban Bu, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-HammeringBrass-1678_th.jpg\" alt=\"Hammering brass into shape, Ban Bu, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Hammering brass into shape, Ban Bu, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-GrindingBrass-1691_md.jpg\" title=\"Granding brass bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-GrindingBrass-1691_th.jpg\" alt=\"Granding brass bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Granding brass bowls, Ban Bu, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-FinishedBrassCup-1694_md.jpg\" title=\"Finished hand-made brass cup, Ban Bu, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-FinishedBrassCup-1694_th.jpg\" alt=\"Finished hand-made brass cup, Ban Bu, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Finished hand-made brass cup, Ban Bu, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-NextGeneration-1697_md.jpg\" title=\"Next generation not hand-making brass, Ban Bu, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-BanBu-NextGeneration-1697_th.jpg\" alt=\"Next generation not hand-making brass, Ban Bu, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Next generation not hand-making brass, Ban Bu, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalTrip-WatChalorBoatTemple-1770_md.jpg\" title=\"Wat Chalor boat temple, West of Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-canal\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-CanalTrip-WatChalorBoatTemple-1770_th.jpg\" alt=\"Wat Chalor boat temple, West of Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Wat Chalor boat temple, West of Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div>\n<p>Heading back toward Bangkok, we stopped for lunch at Yok Yor, a restaurant on the banks of the canal. Upon our return, we mingled with the swarm of tourists and locals at the pier. I drank a young coconut to cool down, and wandered aimlessly among the t-shirts and trinkets until it was time to pile back in our vans for the slow ride back to our hotel. We had time before dinner to squeeze in a massage, read, work on photos, or take a nap. Zzzzzzzz.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-StuffedSquid-1792_md.jpg\" title=\"Stuffed squid, Yok Yor, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-StuffedSquid-1792_th.jpg\" alt=\"Stuffed squid, Yok Yor, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Stuffed squid, Yok Yor, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-SnowPeaShrimp-1793_md.jpg\" title=\"Shrimp with snow peas, Yok Yor, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-SnowPeaShrimp-1793_th.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp with snow peas, Yok Yor, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Shrimp with snow peas, Yok Yor, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-BitterMelonCurry-1794_md.jpg\" title=\"Bitter melon curry, Yok Yor, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-BitterMelonCurry-1794_th.jpg\" alt=\"Bitter melon curry, Yok Yor, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Bitter melon curry, Yok Yor, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-Crab-1795_md.jpg\" title=\"Crab, Yok Yor, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-Crab-1795_th.jpg\" alt=\"Crab, Yok Yor, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Crab, Yok Yor, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-Fish-1799_md.jpg\" title=\"Fish, Yok Yor, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-YokYor-Fish-1799_th.jpg\" alt=\"Fish, Yok Yor, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Fish, Yok Yor, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div>\n<p>If it&#8217;s Saturday, we must be dining at My Choice, across busy Sukhumvit Avenue. This place was great as usual.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-MasamanCurryAndRoti-1811_md.jpg\" title=\"Massaman curry and roti, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-MasamanCurryAndRoti-1811_th.jpg\" alt=\"Massaman curry and roti, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Massaman curry and roti, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-WingBeanSalad-1812_md.jpg\" title=\"Winged bean salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-WingBeanSalad-1812_th.jpg\" alt=\"Winged bean salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Winged bean salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-CrabDip-1813_md.jpg\" title=\"Spicy crab dip, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-CrabDip-1813_th.jpg\" alt=\"Spicy crab dip, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Spicy crab dip, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-EggplantSalad-1814_md.jpg\" title=\"Grilled eggplant salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-EggplantSalad-1814_th.jpg\" alt=\"Grilled eggplant salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Grilled eggplant salad, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-Squid-1816_md.jpg\" title=\"Squid, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-Squid-1816_th.jpg\" alt=\"Squid, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Squid, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-SouthernCurryChicken-1818_md.jpg\" title=\"Dry style Southern curry chicken, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-din\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MyChoice-SouthernCurryChicken-1818_th.jpg\" alt=\"Dry style Southern curry chicken, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Dry style Southern curry chicken, My Choice restaurant, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>After an early session of email, I worked on some photos from Friday and prepared to meet the day. The group got together in the lobby at 7:15 to stroll the local market and gather treats for breakfast at the noodle shop. These included khanom krok, a pancake-like confection made with coconut milk and ground <a href='https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/2007\/12\/life-on-the-canals\/' class='excerpt-more'>[&#8230;]<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[28],"class_list":["post-352","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-northern-trip-2008","tag-bangkok","category-4-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/352","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=352"}],"version-history":[{"count":7,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/352\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":468,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/352\/revisions\/468"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=352"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=352"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=352"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}