{"id":355,"date":"2007-12-30T23:55:06","date_gmt":"2007-12-31T07:55:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/?p=355"},"modified":"2012-10-30T00:10:22","modified_gmt":"2012-10-30T07:10:22","slug":"into-the-heart-of-the-tourist-beast","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/2007\/12\/into-the-heart-of-the-tourist-beast\/","title":{"rendered":"Into the Heart of the Tourist Beast"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>We rolled into Wat Traimit, the temple of the 5.5 ton solid gold Buddha, located in Chinatown, just before 8:00AM. Already the hawkers were in position and visitors were arriving in droves. Some came to pray or to learn their fortune from the roulette-like fortune telling machines; others were here to gawk and take photos. When tourists crowded in front of the devoted &mdash; to pose for pictures in front with the shiny Buddha in the background &mdash; the breach of etiquette was painful to observe. But they did not linger, as guides pushed each new wave through the temple.<\/p>\n<p><!--more--><br \/>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-GoldenBuddha-1821_md.jpg\" title=\"Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-wt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-GoldenBuddha-1821_th.jpg\" alt=\"Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-GoldenBuddha-1831_md.jpg\" title=\"Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-wt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-GoldenBuddha-1831_th.jpg\" alt=\"Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Solid gold Buddha, Wat Traimit, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1825_md.jpg\" title=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-wt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1825_th.jpg\" alt=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1830_md.jpg\" title=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-wt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1830_th.jpg\" alt=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1834_md.jpg\" title=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-wt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-TempleGoldenBuddha-OtherBuddha-1834_th.jpg\" alt=\"Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Another Buddha image, Wat Traimit, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div><\/p>\n<p>Our dim sum spot was not ready for us, so we explored the Chinatown market, composed of several blocks of a covered alley lined on both sides with vendor stalls. In addition to the usual raw vegetables, meat and seafood were numerous stalls offering cooked foods, sweets, loose leaf tea, and various merchandise. Not much different from one might see in Chinatown in San Francisco or Los Angeles, although the New Year assortments appeared to be tailored to local tastes.<\/p>\n<p>For brunch we sat in the back room at Hua Seng Hong and consumed numerous little pork and seafood dumplings, two kinds of pork buns, egg custard tarts, and a dessert of boiled Gingko nuts in a light syrup. We were about ready for our naps, but instead we faced the daunting task of seeing the grounds of the Grand Palace during the peak of high season.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-FishHeads-1839_md.jpg\" title=\"Fish heads at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-FishHeads-1839_th.jpg\" alt=\"Fish heads at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Fish heads at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-StarAnise-1841_md.jpg\" title=\"Star anise at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-StarAnise-1841_th.jpg\" alt=\"Star anise at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Star anise at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-KhanomKrok-1844_md.jpg\" title=\"Khanom krok at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownMarket-KhanomKrok-1844_th.jpg\" alt=\"Khanom krok at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Khanom krok at the market, Chinatown alley, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-MiscDimSum-1849_md.jpg\" title=\"Various dim sum, Chinatown, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-MiscDimSum-1849_th.jpg\" alt=\"Various dim sum, Chinatown, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Various dim sum, Chinatown, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-CustardTarts-1851_md.jpg\" title=\"Custard tarts, Chinatown, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-CustardTarts-1851_th.jpg\" alt=\"Custard tarts, Chinatown, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Custard tarts, Chinatown, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-GingkoNuts-1852_md.jpg\" title=\"Gingko nuts in syrup, Chinatown, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-B\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-ChinaTownBrunch-GingkoNuts-1852_th.jpg\" alt=\"Gingko nuts in syrup, Chinatown, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Gingko nuts in syrup, Chinatown, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div>\n<p>As its name implies, the Grand Palace is both an enormous and an incredibly ornate template complex. The extensive wall murals and numerous intricately decorated figures are almost overwhelming. Oh, and there&#8217;s a gift shop. Afterward, we rested our feet and refueled at a modest rice shop known for its duck. Not bad.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Duck-1987_md.jpg\" title=\"Duck, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Duck-1987_th.jpg\" alt=\"Duck, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Duck, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-MixedStuff-1988_md.jpg\" title=\"Mixed stuff, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-MixedStuff-1988_th.jpg\" alt=\"Mixed stuff, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Mixed stuff, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Curry-1990_md.jpg\" title=\"Curry, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Curry-1990_th.jpg\" alt=\"Curry, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Curry, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-ShrimpCake-1992_md.jpg\" title=\"Shrimp cake, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-ShrimpCake-1992_th.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp cake, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Shrimp cake, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-BasilChicken-1994_md.jpg\" title=\"Basil chicken, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-BasilChicken-1994_th.jpg\" alt=\"Basil chicken, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Basil chicken, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Shrimp-1995_md.jpg\" title=\"Shrimp, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-L\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-Lunch1230-Shrimp-1995_th.jpg\" alt=\"Shrimp, rice shop lunch, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Shrimp, rice shop lunch, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div>\n<p>Our tickets to the Grand Palace included admission to four other attractions. The best known actually displays gifts that had been given to the Thai royal family. As there would be nothing there for visitors interested in Thai culture, we instead visited a small museum showcasing handicrafts from around the country. The Queen has championed traditional crafts, and the often spectacular examples displayed in the museum had been donated in recognition of her support. I noticed several examples of crafts from the South, particularly nielloware and yan lipao basket weaving. There also were wood carvings, gold and silver jewelry, and textiles. The most unusual were objects decorated with iridescent pieces of beetle wings, lending a metallic dark blue-green one would not expect to find in nature. The museum did not permit photography, but trust me, this is a good stop.<\/p>\n<p>Finally, we stopped by the Marble temple, where some young monks were attempting to erect a large gazebo. After exploring the aptly named temple built from marble, we chilled out under the trees by a peaceful stream or canal.<\/p>\n<div class=\"sbs\">\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-Ubosot-2012_md.jpg\" title=\"Marble Temple Ubosot, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-Ubosot-2012_th.jpg\" alt=\"Marble Temple Ubosot, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Marble Temple Ubosot, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-WindowFigure-2017_md.jpg\" title=\"Window figure, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-WindowFigure-2017_th.jpg\" alt=\"Window figure, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Window figure, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-DoorPanel-2028_md.jpg\" title=\"Door panel, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-DoorPanel-2028_th.jpg\" alt=\"Door panel, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Door panel, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-BuddhaImage-2022_md.jpg\" title=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-BuddhaImage-2022_th.jpg\" alt=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-StarvingBuddha-2025_md.jpg\" title=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-StarvingBuddha-2025_th.jpg\" alt=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-WalkingBuddha-2026_md.jpg\" title=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-WalkingBuddha-2026_th.jpg\" alt=\"Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Buddha image, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-Singh-2030_md.jpg\" title=\"Singh at the Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-Singh-2030_th.jpg\" alt=\"Singh at the Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Singh at the Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<p><a href=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-DownwardFacingDog-2039_md.jpg\" title=\"Downward facing dog, Marble Temple, Bangkok\" rel=\"lightbox-mt\"><img decoding=\"async\"\n src=\"\/ttw\/jfs\/n08\/img\/Bangkok-MarbleTemple-DownwardFacingDog-2039_th.jpg\" alt=\"Downward facing dog, Marble Temple, Bangkok\"><span style=\"display:block;font-size:0.8em;line-height:1.2em;max-height:3.5em;overflow:hidden\">Downward facing dog, Marble Temple, Bangkok<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n<br style=\"clear:both\">\n<\/div><form action=\"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-content\/jfslogon.php\" method=\"post\"><p style=\"font-style:italic;font-size:0.8em;\">Enter passcode to show locked content for \"Northern trip, 2007-2008\": <input type=\"text\" name=\"pass\" style=\"width:6em\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"trip\" value=\"n08\"><input type=\"hidden\" name=\"pid\" value=\"355\"> <input type=\"submit\" value=\"Unlock\"><\/p><\/form>\n<p>Back at the hotel, there was just time for a final foot massage before another excellent dinner at My Choice. We were scheduled for a 5:15 AM checkout, so it seemed wise to pack as much as possible and turn in early. But it also seemed smart to try to catch up on these notes&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>We rolled into Wat Traimit, the temple of the 5.5 ton solid gold Buddha, located in Chinatown, just before 8:00AM. Already the hawkers were in position and visitors were arriving in droves. Some came to pray or to learn their fortune from the roulette-like fortune telling machines; others were here to gawk and take photos. <a href='https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/2007\/12\/into-the-heart-of-the-tourist-beast\/' class='excerpt-more'>[&#8230;]<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_editorskit_title_hidden":false,"_editorskit_reading_time":0,"_editorskit_is_block_options_detached":false,"_editorskit_block_options_position":"{}","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[28],"class_list":["post-355","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-northern-trip-2008","tag-bangkok","category-4-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/355","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=355"}],"version-history":[{"count":13,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/355\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1648,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/355\/revisions\/1648"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=355"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=355"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.jeffersonscher.com\/ttw\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=355"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}