Today we were challenged to learn about Hmong culture by visiting their village and experiencing their ceremonies, intoxicating beverages, musical instruments, songs, and dances. In exchange, we supported the village economy with a few purchases, and put on a little show of traditional American songs. We definitely got back more than we put in. Continue reading »
It is time to leave Thailand’s central plain and head for the hills which mark the beginning of Northern Thailand. We have more temples to see, more noodles to eat, and more shopping to do. Sukhothai was affected in several ways by the flooding this past Spring, but one particular change that touches our schedule is that the morning market has been moved to temporary quarters. We will visit the old market site for a traditional breakfast of wide rice noodles with roast duck, buy bags of fiery chillies, and then head over to the alternate location. Continue reading »
After a quick breakfast of rice porridge with various toppings, we headed West to view the famous ruins of Wat Mahathat and other temples. Once it became too warm to wander in the sun, we pointed our vans North toward Si Satchanalai to dive into the local culture. Continue reading »
After breakfast, we would tour more temples and then hit the road North. The owner at Pae Krung Kao insisted that Kasma bring our group back this morning for breakfast, so we set aside our hotel buffet coupons and loaded back into the vans. We would feast on numerous bowls of congee (rice porridge). Continue reading »
It’s time to break out of Bangkok and head North to see UNESCO World Heritage sites, visit hill tribe villages, taste a wide variety of local specialties, and of course, go shopping. Tonight we’ll be staying in the hot and humid central plain, where temple etiquette demanding long pants promises to make ice water one of my favorite foods. Continue reading »
I know better than to just lie down and close my eyes “for a minute.” I awoke at midnight hot, thirsty, and wearing even more wrinkled clothes. All too soon the alarm was buzzing; it was time for a quick shower and the first of many market walks. Continue reading »
I arrived about 12 hours ahead of the group and settled in at the Hotel Rex. The New Years revelers across the street just could not stop the music. I struggled to stay asleep, waking at 3:30 and finally around 6:50. Perhaps this will help with my adjustment? Checking e-mail over wi-fi brought potentially disappointing news: due to flight schedules, we might not make it to A. Mallika, the traditional and delicious first lunch stop. I crossed my fingers and prepared for the day. Continue reading »
I suppose I should have a better reason for returning to Thailand a sixth time than chilly Bay Area nights and wanting to stock up on delicately fragrant green tea. Of course, the food is excellent, the temples are beautiful, and the occasional unpredictable chaos teaches a lesson in patience. Call it a rut, call it a mid-life crisis, call it an attempt to find meaning: when traveling, there is a better chance I will look up from my many screens and really be in the moment. An opportunity maybe, just maybe, to answer the question: “Who should I be and what should I do when I grow up?” Continue reading »
On this final morning in Bangkok, there was little time to roam the streets for last minute tastes of the deliciously familiar. Instead, it was the challenge of securely packaging precious souvenirs in a manageable fashion that compelled me to check the 7-11 for rope, twine, handles, or anything to supplement my packing tape. In the end, more tape would have to do. After a last breakfast of rice porridge in the hotel restaurant, we loaded into the van for the airport. Continue reading »
I needed a little time for the internet, so I arose early, showered, and somehow crammed everything into my roller bag without having to use the expansion feature. The Krabi Maritime’s breakfast buffet offered one last bowl of rice porridge, and the weirdest looking pad Thai I’ve ever seen, in a very unnatural shade of red. Surely the food choices will improve when we arrive in Bangkok. Continue reading »
After a last cold, salty shower and a last sunrise on the lovely beach of Koh Poda, we gathered for a breakfast of boiled rice soup with chicken meatballs. After a brief powerboat ride back to Ao Nang, we would be heading back to Krabi town for better food and better accommodations. Continue reading »
We have a day of transition before our next island destination but this, too, will be spent mostly in a swimsuit. Heading North from Trang to Krabi, our first stop was a small restaurant serving local-style dim sum. However, seeing that a tour bus had just dropped off passengers there, we drove another block to a second place. It had less selection, but it was okay. Those less than impressed would not have to wait long for another bite: we soon would be stopping at the Kook Ming cake factory! Continue reading »
Our last morning on Koh Lipe involved another run through the buffet (ho hum) and then a chaotic transfer by longtail boat to the ferry pier. Pier is generous: a too-small rectangular area composed of air-filled plastic blocks has two speedboats tied up to it at a time, and several longtail “taxis” attempting to unload passengers and bags from all directions. No one seems to be in charge, but the captains of the ferries give orders and reprimands. Tourists approach one another for a clue, but we who cannot speak Thai are all confused. Continue reading »
The bug is back. And although I could have squished him (her?) several times in flicking it toward the corner, it failed to take the hint to run down the hole. Currently it has left the bathroom and disguised itself against the wood paneling of the Western wall of the bungalow. I will let the housekeeping crew deal with it. Continue reading »
I set the alarm an hour early to make very certain that I wouldn’t miss the checkout time. Although it was a close call, in the end we were waiting for the BP Samila’s bellhop to lug all our bags down to the van, so I was okay. Continue reading »