We rolled into Wat Traimit, the temple of the 5.5 ton solid gold Buddha, located in Chinatown, just before 8:00AM. Already the hawkers were in position and visitors were arriving in droves. Some came to pray or to learn their fortune from the roulette-like fortune telling machines; others were here to gawk and take photos. When tourists crowded in front of the devoted — to pose for pictures in front with the shiny Buddha in the background — the breach of etiquette was painful to observe. But they did not linger, as guides pushed each new wave through the temple.
Our dim sum spot was not ready for us, so we explored the Chinatown market, composed of several blocks of a covered alley lined on both sides with vendor stalls. In addition to the usual raw vegetables, meat and seafood were numerous stalls offering cooked foods, sweets, loose leaf tea, and various merchandise. Not much different from one might see in Chinatown in San Francisco or Los Angeles, although the New Year assortments appeared to be tailored to local tastes.
For brunch we sat in the back room at Hua Seng Hong and consumed numerous little pork and seafood dumplings, two kinds of pork buns, egg custard tarts, and a dessert of boiled Gingko nuts in a light syrup. We were about ready for our naps, but instead we faced the daunting task of seeing the grounds of the Grand Palace during the peak of high season.
As its name implies, the Grand Palace is both an enormous and an incredibly ornate template complex. The extensive wall murals and numerous intricately decorated figures are almost overwhelming. Oh, and there’s a gift shop. Afterward, we rested our feet and refueled at a modest rice shop known for its duck. Not bad.
Our tickets to the Grand Palace included admission to four other attractions. The best known actually displays gifts that had been given to the Thai royal family. As there would be nothing there for visitors interested in Thai culture, we instead visited a small museum showcasing handicrafts from around the country. The Queen has championed traditional crafts, and the often spectacular examples displayed in the museum had been donated in recognition of her support. I noticed several examples of crafts from the South, particularly nielloware and yan lipao basket weaving. There also were wood carvings, gold and silver jewelry, and textiles. The most unusual were objects decorated with iridescent pieces of beetle wings, lending a metallic dark blue-green one would not expect to find in nature. The museum did not permit photography, but trust me, this is a good stop.
Finally, we stopped by the Marble temple, where some young monks were attempting to erect a large gazebo. After exploring the aptly named temple built from marble, we chilled out under the trees by a peaceful stream or canal.
Back at the hotel, there was just time for a final foot massage before another excellent dinner at My Choice. We were scheduled for a 5:15 AM checkout, so it seemed wise to pack as much as possible and turn in early. But it also seemed smart to try to catch up on these notes…
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