After an early session of email, I worked on some photos from Friday and prepared to meet the day. The group got together in the lobby at 7:15 to stroll the local market and gather treats for breakfast at the noodle shop. These included khanom krok, a pancake-like confection made with coconut milk and ground rice; chive dumplings reminiscent of dim sum, served with a sweet soy dipping sauce; roasted bananas doused at the last moment with a honey-like palm-sugar syrup; and ripe mangoes with sweet sticky rice. And of course we could choose plain or hot and sour noodles, with soup or dry style, as our main course. I feel full just thinking about it, but we were planning a late lunch, so the calories would have to stretch.
The drive to the West end of Bangkok was slow, as cars, tuk-tuks, motorcycles, and huge buses clogged the streets around the Grand Palace and other well known attractions. Just beyond, we stepped out into the marketplace at Tha Chang (a ferry pier) and made our way to a smaller pier which handles private boat rentals. We would be the masters of our own schedule, as we headed up Khlong Bangkok Noi, one of the primary canals heading West into Thonburi. Whether due to heavy boat traffic or other reasons, the waterways were quite choppy today, but we all got into the extra-long longtail boat without injury.
Longtails are named for their propeller shafts, which can reach lengths of several feet. The drivers maneuvers the noisy diesel engine to position the propeller and maneuver the boat around (or through) obstacles in the waterway. We crossed busy Chao Phraya river and motored over to the Royal Barge Museum. I had visited the museum in February 2006, when several barges were being freshened up. Since that time, they have been used in two or three ceremonial processions and — with the exception of the part of the hull near the waterline — are in peak condition. We snapped many photos.
After departing the museum, we continued through a “residential” area where the canal was lined with houses built on stilts or behind a concrete seawall. We disembarked at Ban Bu, site of the last workshop making bronze bowls in the traditional manner by hand. The hot fires used to soften the metal for working, and the incessant hammering and grinding make for a challenging workplace. We visited each station and retreated to the adjacent shop to consider whether there was room in our lives (and suitcases) for any of these unique items. I chose a small bowl (or large teacup) with saucer, and a spoon that I need for eating coconuts and other practical applications. On our way back to our boat, we passed the playground of the next generation, World of Warcraft, where perhaps they will make virtual bronze products.
We continued Northeast to Wat Chalor, which is building an unusual new temple to replace its dilapidated historic structure. The design is similar to the royal barges, made of cast cement and raucously decorated. We were free to view and photograph the exterior, but entrance would have required that we make merit by paying for admission, so we simply took in the exterior. A few dogs were alarmed by our presence, but the pig simply dozed right through our visit.
Heading back toward Bangkok, we stopped for lunch at Yok Yor, a restaurant on the banks of the canal. Upon our return, we mingled with the swarm of tourists and locals at the pier. I drank a young coconut to cool down, and wandered aimlessly among the t-shirts and trinkets until it was time to pile back in our vans for the slow ride back to our hotel. We had time before dinner to squeeze in a massage, read, work on photos, or take a nap. Zzzzzzzz.
If it’s Saturday, we must be dining at My Choice, across busy Sukhumvit Avenue. This place was great as usual.
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