Snorkeling Koh Surin

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Feb 012015
 

Fish and coral; coral and fish. The program for an excursion to Koh Surin can be a bit repetitive, but for snorkeling lovers, there is a lot to see here, including the occasional octopus and reef shark, monkeys raiding the garbage, and a somewhat tamed hornbill. Add a visit to a “sea gypsy” village and you have a very full and exhausting four-day weekend. Just don’t plan on having internet access. Continue reading »

West to Khuraburi

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Jan 292015
 

Despite many wonderful distractions around Nahkon Si Thammarat, we are focused on our journey to the Koh Surin marine national park (Mu Koh Surin) tomorrow. Today we have a lot of driving to cross over to the West side of the peninsula, so we have just a couple of quick stops on our way to the beautiful Greenview Resort in Khuraburi. After just one night there we head out to the islands where we will float around face down looking at fish and coral. Continue reading »

One Temple, Two Museums, and Numerous Shops

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Jan 282015
 

Since we had to skip a template on the way from Chumphon to Khao Sok, today will be our big temple day. Which means wearing long pants and trying hard to avoid offending anyone. But no day in Thailand is without humor and fun. Or food: there’s always more food than you can possibly eat. Continue reading »

Eco-Tourism, Eco-Shopping

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Jan 272015
 

With somewhere between 85,000 and 120,000 residents, Nakhon Si Thammarat is Southern Thailand’s cultural capital, and one of the South’s larger towns. With many more Thai than Western tourists and strong traditional influences, it’s still a place where many children look at pale skinned foreigners as a different species. That’s okay, I’m sure we don’t really understand them, either. Continue reading »

Into the Wild

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Jan 262015
 

Khao Sok park is dominated by an enormous reservoir popularly known as Cheow Lan Lake. The dam built to create this reservoir was justified on the grounds of bringing hydroelectric power to Southern Thailand, but I can’t help thinking that someone foresaw the impact of easy access by boat to an otherwise difficult-to-explore forest. Now often hyped as “Guilin, Thailand,” the park’s magnificent karsts and reticent primates draw numerous tourists inland from their beach resorts for one-day or overnight adventures. Like us. Continue reading »

Escape from Bangkok

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Jan 252015
 

On previous trips, we covered over 500km to reach Ranong so we were in position to head to the pier early Monday morning. This year, we are sticking to the Gulf side of the Malay peninsula, so we should have a slightly more leisurely day, and we will stay at a resort I’ve never visited before. Change is good. Continue reading »

Jan 242015
 

We have just one full day in Bangkok and we’re going shopping. With hundreds of vendor stalls, Chatuchak weekend market almost certainly has what you’re looking for (even if you don’t know until you see it). But with its confusing layout and crowded walkways, will you find it before the heat and stuffiness force you to the periphery for a refreshing beverage? Fortunately, refreshing beverages are everywhere you look. You might even find a full bar nestled among the souvenirs. Continue reading »

Jan 232015
 

Since United keeps raising the number of award miles required for a First Class seat, I am again flying EVA’s Premium Economy (“Elite”) class. Compared with United’s Economy Plus, you get a better seat, better food, more personalized service, two free checked bags, and expedited check-in. I think it’s worth the extra cost, and now I can accumulate United miles because they joined Star Alliance. Oh, hold on, those are the miles I can never redeem. I must be a glutton for punishment. Continue reading »

Jan 212015
 

I first visited Thailand in 2005, only three weeks after the terrible Indian Ocean tsunami of December 26, 2004. The Khao Lak, Phi Phi and Phuket resort areas had been heavily damaged, but the rest of Southern Thailand was eagerly welcoming the few tourists who had not canceled their plans. We had pristine beaches and popular restaurants all to ourselves, but we also saw sobering evidence of recent events, such as pieces of shattered furniture floating in bays where we snorkeled, and clothing deposited on beaches overnight. Despite these sad reminders, the trip was tremendously rewarding: beautiful scenery above and below the water, fantastic Thai food, and a warm welcome from the Thai people we met throughout the country. And our group was a lot of fun.

Over the past ten years, I returned five times, and have now spent nearly 24 weeks in Thailand — more than any other destination I’ve visited. Still, I couldn’t help returning to Thailand one more time, to revisit favorite haunts and explore new reefs. Hopefully it will be as interesting for you as it is for me.

Posts for this trip can be found on this page: http://www.jeffersonscher.com/ttw/category/southern-trip-2015/ (newest first)

Please, no Facebooking until the trip is over. Thanks.

Not With A Bang

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Feb 232012
 

On this final morning in Bangkok, there was little time to roam the streets for last minute tastes of the deliciously familiar. Instead, it was the challenge of securely packaging precious souvenirs in a manageable fashion that compelled me to check the 7-11 for rope, twine, handles, or anything to supplement my packing tape. In the end, more tape would have to do. After a last breakfast of rice porridge in the hotel restaurant, we loaded into the van for the airport. Continue reading »

Flights of Feasting

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Feb 222012
 

I needed a little time for the internet, so I arose early, showered, and somehow crammed everything into my roller bag without having to use the expansion feature. The Krabi Maritime’s breakfast buffet offered one last bowl of rice porridge, and the weirdest looking pad Thai I’ve ever seen, in a very unnatural shade of red. Surely the food choices will improve when we arrive in Bangkok. Continue reading »

Spa-Like Conditions

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Feb 212012
 

After a last cold, salty shower and a last sunrise on the lovely beach of Koh Poda, we gathered for a breakfast of boiled rice soup with chicken meatballs. After a brief powerboat ride back to Ao Nang, we would be heading back to Krabi town for better food and better accommodations. Continue reading »

Feb 192012
 

We have a day of transition before our next island destination but this, too, will be spent mostly in a swimsuit. Heading North from Trang to Krabi, our first stop was a small restaurant serving local-style dim sum. However, seeing that a tour bus had just dropped off passengers there, we drove another block to a second place. It had less selection, but it was okay. Those less than impressed would not have to wait long for another bite: we soon would be stopping at the Kook Ming cake factory! Continue reading »

Feb 152012
 

Our last morning on Koh Lipe involved another run through the buffet (ho hum) and then a chaotic transfer by longtail boat to the ferry pier. Pier is generous: a too-small rectangular area composed of air-filled plastic blocks has two speedboats tied up to it at a time, and several longtail “taxis” attempting to unload passengers and bags from all directions. No one seems to be in charge, but the captains of the ferries give orders and reprimands. Tourists approach one another for a clue, but we who cannot speak Thai are all confused. Continue reading »

Thailand’s Southernmost Snorkeling

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Feb 132012
 

The bug is back. And although I could have squished him (her?) several times in flicking it toward the corner, it failed to take the hint to run down the hole. Currently it has left the bathroom and disguised itself against the wood paneling of the Western wall of the bungalow. I will let the housekeeping crew deal with it. Continue reading »