Ocean Extraction

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Jan 262017
 

It’s tempting to imagine what proper resort accommodations might do to one’s experience at Koh Surin, but if it were more comfortable, there might be even more competition for longtail boats and more stress on the reefs, so it’s probably better to tolerate the inconveniences and compensate with a little luxury when we return to land. At least, that’s how we’re thinking about it as we prepare to leave our dark, stuffy bungalows for a last snorkel, and then, too soon for me, our ferry back to shore. Continue reading »

Snorkel Interruptus

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Jan 252017
 

Despite multiple coral bleaching episodes in recent years, many of the reefs around Koh Surin retain their colorful corals and plentiful communities of fish. As committed snorkelers, we were intent on seeing as much as possible during our time here. As I like to joke, our itinerary is generally “snorkel, snorkel, lunch, snorkel, snorkel, dinner.” Continue reading »

A Long Day’s Drive

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Jan 222017
 

There is a lot of road to cover between Bangkok and the pier where we’ll catch our ferry to the Koh Surin Marine National Park (Mu Ko Surin). We’ll shop and eat our way down the Malay Peninsula and overnight in Ranong, as I did in 2005, 2006, 2010, and 2012. But what appears “same same” on paper always seems to have some variation. Continue reading »

Let’s Get This Party Started

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Jan 212017
 

After taking a couple of days to orient myself to local time, I will at last be meeting up with our group for the first of many dinnertime feasts, and tomorrow our journey begins in earnest. At mid-day I will move from the condo to our hotel, but first, I’ll have one last breakfast on my own. Maybe it’s time to take a break from pork noodle soup? There are so many other kinds of noodle soup I could try. Continue reading »

Unfamiliar Kitchens

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Jan 192017
 

When I mention to people that I’m traveling to Thailand with my Thai cooking teacher Kasma Loha-Unchit, they often think I am coming here to learn how to cook Thai food. I always feel a bit sheepish explaining that I take my Thai cooking lessons right at home, in Oakland, California (The Art of Thai Cooking), and I come to Thailand to eat as much properly cooked Thai food as humanly possible. Not out of mere gluttony — also to refresh my taste memory of the heights to which my cooking aspires. Today I will finally take a cooking class on this side of the Pacific and learn some variations from the techniques I’ve been taught in the past. But first, how about some pork noodle soup for breakfast? Continue reading »

Egg Noodles, Meet Pork

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Jan 182017
 

Before my trip last year, my sister gave me Thailand’s Best Street Food (Amazon.com), and since I wasn’t able to work my way through the entire list then, I’m going to resume my work today and try to eat as much Bangkok street food as possible. I think I’m ready for any eventuality: I brought Tums, Pepto-Bismol, and a Z-Pak. Continue reading »

Well Cared For

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Jan 172017
 

My roommate Greg kindly agreed to drive me to the airport for my flight. Although I had ambitions of leaving home by 8:00AM — wait, why are you laughing? — true to form, with so much to pack in so little space, not unsurprisingly, our actual departure was much later. As I rolled my bags toward the counter and spotted the self-check-in machines, I suddenly remembered what I had forgotten to pack. It wasn’t the mask, snorkel, or fins, six (!) cameras, their chargers, or innumerable batteries. It was the one thing you most need for an international trip, and I don’t mean clean underwear (although, at that point, it might have been welcome). Call an Uber: I forgot my passport! Continue reading »

Southern Exposure

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Jan 152017
 

Gearing up for my sixth trip to Southern Thailand, I have to wonder whether I have anything fresh to say about the islands and reefs of the Andaman Sea, the delicious (and sometimes adventurous) food we find in restaurants and markets, visits to museums and temples, crafts and other shopping temptations, and the numerous quirks of traveling in a country so different from our own. The itinerary combines destinations from several of my trips: Continue reading »

Homeward Bound

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Feb 182015
 

Our time in Thailand is drawing to a close. A bit more shopping and eating is all we can fit in before boarding our onward flights. Continue reading »

Krabi Unstructured

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Feb 162015
 

Today is our “free day,” where we can roam Krabi freely and do whatever we like. With the harsh afternoon sun muted by overcast skies, it’s a little more realistic than usual to get in a lot of shopping, a temple, a massage, maybe even some physical activity. But relaxing also sounds really, really nice. Continue reading »

Three Final Days in the Water

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Feb 152015
 

Our last three swimsuit days involved a dip in a hot spring, a splash in a pleasantly cool crystal-clear pond, and two boat trips to picturesque islands. Strenuous undersea workouts were followed by lavish Thai dinners. Really, it’s impossible for you to have any sympathy for my minor annoyances. Continue reading »

Same Same but Different, Lanta style

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Feb 122015
 

Every Southern trip is a bit different, but the most significant change for me this year will be two full day excursions to new snorkel spots near the island of Koh Lanta. But before leaving Trang, we will have a couple more food-related stops to make. Continue reading »

The Delicious Chinese-Thai Cuisine of Trang

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Feb 092015
 

We will be taking a break from snorkeling for three days, and then resuming from our new island base on Koh Lanta. In the meantime, we’ll feast on Chinese-Thai cuisine, do a little early morning birding, and take a little time to relax. Or update our blogs. ;-) Continue reading »

Happy Hours Above and Below the Waves

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Feb 072015
 

On my first trip to Thailand, I did my first snorkeling in the Tarutao park. The undersea life includes enormous colorful clams and soft corals, which were quite novel to me as I had never seen anything like them in Hawaii or Cancun. In recent years, the one island in the park open to development, Koh Lipe, has seen enormous growth. Setting “Survivor Thailand” here might also have increased the popularity of the park. Continue reading »

Various Kinds of Luxury

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Feb 042015
 

Today I needed to be alone with my computer to finish my timesheets for January and to post a few blog updates. Luckily the battery held out until evening when we visited a new hotel with ample 24-hour electricity but spotty wi-fi. The battle continues. Continue reading »

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