Southern Thailand – Page 6 – Tasting the World

Freshwater Adventures

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Feb 032010

Krabi (February 3, 2010)

We left the comforts of the Maritime and headed South for the final leg of our snorkel journey. Our first stop was for a lunch-like breakfast of noodles and fried chicken. When we arrived at Nua Klong, we outnumbered the available pieces of chicken, so a new order went into the fryer. Hot and deliciously crispy, the secret to this recipe, besides palm oil in the fryer and a dusting of rice flour on the chicken, is the type of lean, strong, free range chickens in this region. As we worked on our chicken, bowls of noodles in a pale green sauce began to arrive. These thin rice noodles, known as khanom jin, are made with a slightly fermented rice flour dough and traditionally served in a light coconut milk curry with ground fish. The noodles here are made on the premises, and have a nice texture; also the sauce is very tasty.

Idyllic Islands

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Feb 022010

Krabi (January 30, 2010)

While the Maritime is lovely, its breakfast buffet has little Thai flavor. Eggs, hot dogs (“sausages”), potatoes, waffles, and porridge are available for the international traveler seeking the comforts of home. The porridge with a few pork meatballs and a soft-boiled egg was about as exotic as I could get.

Snorkelers Out of Water

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Jan 292010

Kuraburi (January 29, 2010)

The Greenview’s breakfast buffet was a bit boring, but congee with pork meatballs was available upon request, and I was able to mix in a raw egg from the omelet bar (cooked by the hot soup). With some crushed dried chillies, it made a pretty solid meal. That, hot tea, and fresh fruit would have to tide me over until our mid-morning snack.

Rustic Snorkeling Heaven

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Jan 282010

Ranong (January 25, 2010)

The hotel said they would open their dining room at 6:15 am to accommodate our schedule. However, they failed to mention that the food would not arrive until 6:30. Perhaps that is unfair to the white bread and sliced fruit — they are foods, too — but the extra 15 minutes built into our schedule already was being squeezed out.

As we headed to the pier at Ban Hin Lahd, we passed through at least 3 checkpoints. There is a serious effort here to crack down on Burmese immigrants. Fortunately, none of us merited close inspection.

The Most Eating Ever

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Jan 242010

Bangkok (January 24, 2010)

Leaving Bangkok under cover of darkness, we made good time on the major highway toward Southern Thailand. Our first stop was a roadside stand selling shrimp paste (kapi) and sea salt. The products are complementary, in that salt is an important element of turning tiny fresh shrimp into the fermented paste that forms the base for many Thai curries and relishes. Although I still have a jar from 2008, for just over a dollar, it makes sense to get a fresh jar. And thus begins another day of barely justifiable shopping.

Stocking Up

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Jan 232010

Bangkok (January 23, 2010)

We only have one full day in Bangkok on this trip, and because we will mostly be snorkeling from here on out, we need to squeeze in as much souvenir shopping as possible. Or other shopping: I would like to find some magical pants that provide good sun and mosquito protection, and yet are very lightweight and breathable, and clean themselves. Well, at least some of these things might be possible.

It’s a Whole New Trip

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Jan 222010

Bangkok (January 22, 2010)

Today we begin our Southern Trip! But I have most of the day to myself for running errands, further recovering from my cold, and eating.

Laying Low

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Jan 212010

Bangkok (January 19, 2010)

My sniffles of the past couple of days turned into a very unpleasant cold overnight. Nevertheless, I scrambled downstairs to say goodbye and beg for baht. (Thanks to all who sold or donated!)

Traveling to Southern Thailand with Kasma Loha-Unchit: What to Expect on Trip “So”

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Dec 112009

Every year, Kasma Loha-Unchit leads groups of her cooking students and other fans of Thai cuisine on trips to Southern Thailand. Highlights include hours of snorkeling on the extensive reefs in the Andaman Sea; relaxing on beautiful beaches; visiting a batik workshop; shopping in vast markets featuring fresh fruit, vegetables and prepared foods; swimming in jungle pools and hot springs; and eating lots of delicious Thai food. For a general overview of the experience of traveling with Kasma, see Visiting Thailand with Kasma Loha-Unchit.

What to Expect on the Southern Trip (Trip “So”, formerly called Trip “C”)

Kasma offers a 28-day Southern trip that covers the Andaman (West) coast of the peninsula and selected destinations on the Gulf (East) coast; in 2010, she offered a shorter 20-day trip focused on snorkeling the Andaman Sea; current and future itineraries may vary. Here are a few notes about these trips, based on having taken the longer trip in 2006 (and updated following the shorter trip in 2010).
Continue reading »

Back to Bangkok

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Feb 192006

Krabi (Wednesday, February 15, 2006)

Suddenly, It’s All Over

The group’s last full day in Thailand began quietly at the Maritime’s breakfast buffet. We arrived at the airport and despite some inefficiency at the check-in counter, we had plenty of time to shop and chat before boarding our flight from Krabi to Bangkok. The plane was packed, and the snack wasn’t very interesting, but we had a big lunch and an even bigger dinner to look forward to. Continue reading »

Rest and Relaxation

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Feb 142006

Koh Poda (Monday, February 13, 2006)

I awoke with the Poda island roosters around 5:40 AM, and could not fall back asleep. I tried to photograph sunrise through the clouds, and by 7:00 AM I had captured a few decent shots. Looking at the wind on the water, I decided I was feeling too lazy to snorkel, and headed back to the cabin to shower and pack. After an immense breakfast of chow fun-like wide rice noodles (with more than ample cooking oil), we loaded up two longtail boats for some scenic touring on the way back to Krabi. Continue reading »

Idyllic Island Home

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Feb 122006

Krabi (Saturday, February 11, 2006)

Based on the 2005 trip, I was totally unprepared for the huge crowds at our various destinations today. It started with the breakfast buffet, when I could not find an empty table, and all of the tables for our party were full. I joined Kasma briefly, because she had persuaded the kitchen to make an omelet of our left over kua kling beef from the night before. (A spicy beef dish that starts off seeming medium hot and very flavorful, and builds to hot hot hot.) After a mad dash of packing, we were into our vans and off to the pier to catch our longtail boat to our idyllic island home Koh Poda (gaw po-DA). We would go by way of some of the more popular spots in the area. Continue reading »

We Finally Found the Tourists

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Feb 102006

Trang (Thursday, February 9, 2006)

We enjoyed Trang’s restaurants and night market, but it was time to move on to Krabi, where we have upgraded accommodations and some of the finest food we will eat on our trip. The towns are not far apart, so it makes sense to stop a few places along the way and support the local tourism economy. But first, a breakfast of dim sum, Trang style. Continue reading »

Trang — Returning to Solid Ground

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Feb 082006

Koh Lipe (Tuesday, February 7, 2006)

Plans to try for another sunrise had to be scuttled when I overslept my alarm by 40 minutes. Perhaps the noise of the ceiling fan drowned it out, or my subconscious chose additional sleep. After a quick cold shower and a sprint of packing, I arrived in the dining room to a filling breakfast of rice porridge with a few chunks of fish, slivers of ginger, toasted garlic, and optional crushed chillies. Mmmm, seconds please. Continue reading »

Tarutao Marine Park (Mu Koh Tarutao)

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Feb 062006

Satun (Saturday, February 4, 2006)

The noisy air conditioner and defective showerhead made rising and shining a chore, but I made it to the lobby on time. We sped from Satun North and West to Pak Bara Pier where we dropped in on a local shop for a breakfast of pad thai noodles. I picked up a bunch of bananas for the island, but they would only survive 30 hours before becoming too overripe to keep eating. Continue reading »

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